Avantgardeproject continues to sum up the avant-garde fashion weeks of the FW 2015 season. We have already talked about the avant-garde music playing on the shows in London, Milan and Paris, collected prints from the collections of Dior, Givenchy and of Valentino, as well as listed crazy looks from male shows. The new article is dedicated to avant-garde clothing for women. Most famous designers in avant-garde fashion have already presented their latest collections. They cover from the Victorian era dresses of Gareth Pugh to wedding dresses with a veil of Vivienne Westwood.
Comme des Garçons
Rei Kawakubo has experimented with androgyny in the new season. The designer approached the issue creatively. The young men appeared in women’s wigs and pink clothes, and the women, by contrast, were in men’s suits. Comme des Garçons is a popular Japanese designer of avant-garde fashion. She changes the proportions of jackets and trousers, adds volume at the shoulders and knees with the help of special technique. Journalist Kathy Chorin has called eversion of intestines.
Gareth Pugh has finally got rid of the reputation of a common young British avant-garde fashion designer. The designer, who is shown at Paris Fashion Week, can rightly be called mature. His new collection is inspired by the later Victorian era, and, of course, the gothic. The combination appears in dresses with corsets and lush skirts that are decorated with raven feathers.
The father of the young designer Simone Rocha will be 60 years of age this year. Nevertheless, he still shows nominal avant-garde fashion collections in London. John Rocha showed voluminous cloaks and coats in the autumn-winter season and added to them his trademark dresses. His highlight is the multiple layers of tulle.
The highlight of Ed Madama and Ben Kirchhoff’s show was the choice of models. They picked them up from the city streets. The most mediocre girls passed the casting in the street. As always, Meadham Kirchhoff emphasized the gloomy dresses floor length with lace veils. The valuable and impressive became the avant-garde fashion looks which combined plastic tops, printed skirts and pointed toe shoes made of metallic leather.
The DNA of the British brand Kokon To Zai was based on a mixture of cultures and street casual clothing. Judging by the pattern and the red color, Koji Maruyama, Sasco Bezovski and Marjan Peyoski thought about tribes while creating these avant-garde fashion clothing. Proportions were borrowed from their childhood idol Ray Petri, who is a stylist and the founder of the fashion house Buffalo and.
Sister by Sibling
Not so long ago we talked about Sibling. That’s an avant-garde fashion British brand specializing in knitwear. Designers of the brand Joe Bates, Cosette Makriri and Sid Bryan haven’t reinvented themselves in the new season. The trinity noticed that the world has become some kind of flat, and decided to add some volume in it. The male model appeared in the giant knitted sweaters and terry shorts. The women’s collection of Bates, Brian, and Makriri consisted of woolen berets and oversize dresses.
He was almost the only avant-garde fashion designer from the US in the FW 2015 season. Moreover, he dresses the first lady Michelle Obama and that’s a valuable breakthrough. It seems that his men’s collection was inspired by the Amish. The women clothing of Thom Browne appealed to the “Alice in Wonderland” by Tim Burton. For example, completely red bows refer to the Red Queen. The flower embroidery on dresses takes a base of the collection of Alexander McQuee, who died three years ago.
According to Women’s Wear Daily, the hairstyles of the models from the new fashion show of Yohji Yamamoto reminded of Rey Kawakubo. Maybe, the collection was also inspired by the Japanese style. All the dresses, the aprons over the trousers and the exaggeratedly voluminous cloaks became iconic in avant-garde fashion weeks.
The British avant-garde fashion designer Vivienne Westwood is concerned about the protection of the environment. According to her, the new collection is partly inspired by the environment of the Arctic. The inscription “Climate Revolution” is the proof. The other sources of inspiration were in a mixture of Arabic and European cultures (wedding dress with a veil and cut-outs of the thigh) and the Middle Ages (fluffy cape similar to the mantles of the kings). These were the main iconic collections of the avant-garde fashion weeks 2015.